Archive for July, 2007

Last Days of Coney Island?

Sunday, July 15th, 2007

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Mario Tama/Getty Images

Coney Island was America’s first amusement park and has bizarrely evolved, or devolved, into something that has been called a poor man’s paradise. Its antiquated, delapidated charm has been the backdrop for countless photographers throughout the century and for good reason. For a $2 subway fare any New Yorker can put his or her feet in the sand.

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Mario Tama/Getty Images

A developer recently purchased the land where much of Coney’s heritage sits and is planning a $2 billion makeover of the area. While no one in their right mind could argue that Coney Island isn’t in need of improvement, the thought of a rogue corporate “revitalization” is at best somewhat nauseating. We plan on continuing to document the end of an era.

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Mario Tama/Getty Images

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Mario Tama/Getty Images

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Mario Tama/Getty Images

Another day in Iraq…

Friday, July 13th, 2007

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Chris Hondros/Getty Images 

I rode in a Bradley again the other day, for the first time in a few years.  Bradleys are a rather old-fashioned Army armoured troop carrier; they have treads on them and look like small tanks.  They are increasingly getting supplanted around here by newer, roomier, and sleeker Stryker transport vehicles, which get around better in urban terrain.  Nonetheless, hundreds of Bradleys still grind and roar around Iraq every day, each containing up to seven or eight soldiers, riding uncomfortably inside. 

The sealed-off cabin of a Bradley on a summer day in Iraq is almost unbearably hot; within moments of the huge back hatch swinging shut, you’re covered in a sheen of sweat.  At least mine wasn’t crowded; only two soldiers, an Iraqi translator, and me.  One of the soldiers across from me was an energetic young man from near Missoula, Specialist Winn. 

Talking is nearly impossible in the roar of a moving Bradley, but the impossible didn’t stop Winn, who managed during our ride to shout out to me all about his life in Montana: his fondness of the mountains, for horses and hunting, and his many guns, each of which he described to me in detail.  (He politely asked about mine and was greatly surprised that I owned no guns at all). 

Conversation drifted over to the newly-installed automatic fire extinguishers in the Bradleys - apparently soldiers often have survived the initial blast of roadside bombs, only to burn to death inside.  “They’re great for putting out the fires, but they suck up all the oxygen, so we gotta get out quick if we get hit or we’ll suffocate,” Winn shouted.  He motioned next to me. “You know how to open the escape door on a Bradley?”

I looked down and noticed for the first time a small round door was carved into the larger hatch.  A heavy metal release lever was next to my elbow.“Actually, no,” I yelled.  “Just pull this?”“Yeah, but it sticks sometimes.” His sweaty brow furrowed as he considered some options.  “Tell you what,” he said, finally, “if we get hit, look over to me.  If I’m still alive, move over and I’ll open it.” “Good idea,” I said. “Will do.” But there were no explosions this day, and our escape plan went unused.  It was a long day, though, and finally around sunset the convoy arrived back at the main base and dropped me off, some distance from my tent.  As I walked back I saw other Bradleys lumbering back from or heading to patrols, some navigating fields full of dusty desert powder four inches thick, like the surface of the Moon.  When they crossed these they seemed to be almost floating as they parted the dust, like tiny iron ships, sailing across sandy seas. 

Iraq: Helicopter by night…

Tuesday, July 10th, 2007

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Chris Hondros/Getty Images

A few evenings ago, I rode in a Blackhawk helicopter over Baghdad in the dead of night. The Army flies dozens of loosely scheduled Blackhawk runs here every day, ferrying troops and sometimes civilians around Baghdad. Sometimes the trips are just a few miles, but they save soldiers from the dangerous convoys down bomb-studded roads.

The side door of the helicopter was open as we flew; I stared out into the hot darkness, lost in thought as the rotors beat and the motor whined and I was whipped by the wind. How many helicopters have I been on in Iraq? Hundreds? On how many trips? Ten?

Is that right? Ten trips to Iraq? I worked it out…the first was the invasion itself, March 2003, an ill-fated jaunt into Iraq in the middle of a war, in a rented SUV that got shot out from under me and that I had to abandon under fire on the side of an Iraqi highway; second was in November 2003, when things in Baghdad were safe enough to go out for dinner and drinks every night at local restaurants; third was June of 2004, a trip strategically timed to miss everything important that happened in Iraq that year; fourth was January 2005, when I covered the elections and a horrible checkpoint shooting accident; fifth was June 2005, a hot summer with the Marines in Anbar province; sixth in February 2006, another, less sweaty trip with the Marines; seventh, a stint at a US Army hospital straight out of MASH; eighth, a stay in west Baghdad with a brilliant young colonel, and two weeks covering the Saddam trial, ninth, in February of this year, hopping between small firebases around Baghdad, covering the “surge,” and then, finally, now, trip number ten. Ten trips to Iraq! And for what?

We now flew over a Baghdad neighborhood, high in the sky. Baghdad doesn’t have street lights, but instead uses regular fluorescent tubes, mounted vertically on the sides of poles and houses, to light neighborhoods. These all shone beneath me like a field of cold blue stars, spread out as far as I could see, the enormous city sprawling forever. It was a rare moment of real beauty in this land of heartbreak and pain.